Monday 25 June 2007

Heading for home

The end

Taking the bus to Inverness and then a late flight to Heathrow, I have most of the day to spare at Inverness airport. It's time to contemplate on our achievements with the others at the airport. And then back home to normal life.

Thanks to Sarah, Kevin and Kim at Bike Adventures for all the organisation, and thanks to the two cyclist/mechanic/motivators from Bike Adventures - Ant and Adrian. It was great to meet and cycle with everyone on the trip - thanks for your help, motivation and just sharing a beer in the evenings. Please share your thoughts, photos and cycling plans for the future. Hope to meet up again one day ...

Sunday 24 June 2007

Day 15 - Pushing the Wind - Bettyhill to John O'Groats

Another grey day to see us through to the end of the tour, but at least it's dried off. A few big hills out of Bettyhill to start the day, and we're off on the final leg ... heading straight into a head wind.

"Why are you going from Lands End", asked ALL my friends before this started, "surely it's down hill the other way?". I patiently answered them all "the prevailing wind in the UK is from the south-west, so most people go from LE to JOG to avoid a head wind for the last few days". That told them ... so how come I'm cycling into a head wind for the last day? And it's coming straight from Siberia, carrying ice and hail with it. Wrapped up in every layer I've got, I keep cycling. Only 50 miles to go ...

In the afternoon, I catch up with the Cambridge brigade and cycle with them for a while. What am I saying ... yes, I actually keep pace with them, slip streaming with the team for miles. This really helps with the continuing head wind. So after 5 weeks of training and 2 weeks of Touring, I can finally keep up with the regular cyclists - fantastic.

DunnetDunnet Head lighthouseDunnet Head
Dunnet Head

We take the short detour to Dunnet Head on the way to John O'Groats, to take in the views of the Orkneys, and just to say I've been to the most northerly point. And finally, into John O'Groats, the finish ... there's even a finish line painted before the pub. No tea today - cakes and champagne at the campsite before lots of group photos at the John O'Groats signpost.

The FinishJob doneCampsite, tea and champagne
The FinishJob doneCampsite, tea and champagne
The Cambridge crewBikes heading for homeHighland cow
The Cambridge crewBikes heading for homeHighland cow

Congratulations from complete strangers are welcome and we shout "good luck" to some cyclists starting out in the other direction. They're about to cycle through the worst rain and floods the UK has seen in many years, while we're off to the pub. Dinner with Trevor and Andi and the whole group. Pool and darts until late with Andy and the self-proclaimed "naughty group", and off too bed.

Today's route from Google maps
Tour summary: 59 miles planned, 60 miles actual, 1075 miles in total.

Saturday 23 June 2007

Day 14 - Rain on the Moors - Evanton to Bettyhill

This was the worst day for me - wet, grey and foggy all day with no views to speak of. Well, there probably are views across the Highlands here, but you couldn't see much further than the edge of the road - fog or rain obscured the rest. A day of just pushing on and on. Stopped briefly at Shin Falls to buy a postcard and dry out, but the helpful shop assistant complained about the number of bikes and we moved on.

Didn't see many people, even fewer cars across the bleak moorland, but at least the rain seems to keep the midges at bay. Or is it the total body cover I have to wear that's working against them. Arrive at Bettyhill late afternoon to find no camp set up - what about our tea and cakes? The vans have been delayed so we retire to the hotel for a beer. Checking in, I find there's no en-suite, so sneak into the only bath before anyone else has noticed. Then time for beer, cakes and plan dinner.

After days of grey on the moors, the views from Bettyhill are wonderful - the beaches , the coast and even some sun occasionally. The whole group are eating together at the Bettyhill Hotel tonight - comrades together almost sad to be ending the tour. So dinner, a few games of pool and late to bed, hoping for sun tomorrow.

Highlands riverThe final hill into BettyhillView form Bettyhill Hotel
Highlands riverThe final hill into BettyhillView form Bettyhill Hotel

Today's route from Google maps
Tour summary: 77 miles planned, 79 miles actual, 1015 miles total so far.

Friday 22 June 2007

Day 13 - Passing Loch Ness - Fort William to Evanton

Highland view

From Fort William there's a choice of routes, through the country tracks or the road to Invergarry. With increasing confidence, and after a day on the roads yesterday, I opt for the tougher country tracks. These prove challenging on a road bike, with ruts and holes more designed for a mountain bike. And the weather doesn't help ... but great views cycling along the shores of Loch Lochy and onto the Caledonian Canal.

Meet up with several others at Fort Augustus at the head of Loch Ness. There are a series of locks here stepped together into Neptune's Staircase to climb up to the higher Loch Awe, matched by the descent at Fort William. Lunch with other cyclists in the sun, and a shop by the lock - it almost feels like a normal holiday for a while.

Weir between River Oich and Caledonian CanalNeptune's Staircase at Fort AugustusHead of Loch Ness
Weir between River Oich and Caledonian CanalNeptune's Staircase at Fort AugustusHead of Loch Ness
Lunch at Fort Augustus - Len, Abi, Carl, Ian and LouiseNeptunes StaircaseLock
Lunch at Fort Augustus - Len, Abi, Carl, Ian and LouiseNeptunes StaircaseLock

Cycling by Loch Ness in the afternoon is quite disappointing. Nowhere near as beautiful as the lochs and glens in the Lowlands - Loch Ness is too big to have that same feeling about it. Feels more like cycling beside the sea. Reach the campsite in time for tea and cakes after a very long day.

Route from Google maps
Tour summary: 80 miles planned, 82 miles actual, 936 miles total so far.

Thursday 21 June 2007

Day 12 - Into the Highlands - Inverarary to Fort William

Loch Fyne at Inverarary

Loch Fyne at Inverarary

I survived broken glass of Glasgow without a puncture, but checking my bike shows a 2 inch strip of rubber has been removed from one of the tyres. As usual, I'm in a mad hurry to leave early as I'm slower than most of the other cyclists. But I listen to my own advice from the previous two days, and take time to get it changed. The tyre was dangerous and could have blown on one of the steep descents. So I'm last leaving ... probably an hour after most people.

Beautiful sunny morning cycling by the lochs and glens out to the coast. But the skies grey and rain sets in for the afternoon, a proper Highlands storm with rain and wind, thunder and lighting. On the news I see that flash floods are starting in parts of the country we have left. We may need canoes by the end of the week.

Gradually catch up with other groups, so that there is a long line of us (probably over 20 cyclists) all heading into Fort William together. Great for us, but a pain in for the rest of the traffic on the narrow roads.

Found dinner at a traditional pub in the centre of Fort William, then a walk round the small town in the brilliant evening sunlight. Local bagpipe band is playing in the high Street, attracting crowds of proud parents and tourists.

Castle ruinsRiverHeading into The Highlands
Castle ruinsRiverHeading into The Highlands
Castle Stalker, Loch LaichBagpipes in Fort WilliamLoch Linnhe from Fort William
Castle Stalker, Loch LaichBagpipes in Fort WilliamLoch Linnhe from Fort William

Route map from Google maps
Tour summary: 75 miles planned, 72 miles actual, 854 miles in total so far.

Wednesday 20 June 2007

Day 11 - Cities and Lochs - Motherwell to Inverarary

With another long day's cycling planned, I want to get on the road early. But the weather is appalling and others are planning to wait. Wanting to travel in groups through Glasgow, I’m torn about what to do, but remember my comments about people rushing off early yesterday. I wait with Gareth and Enos, Mike and Dave. And they’re right – the weather eases off just before 10, and we get through Glasgow in the dry.

There are cycle tracks right the way through Glasgow out to Clydebank, part of the Sustrans initiative. This is a great idea, but there is broken glass everywhere. We are constantly running into other groups from the trip, all stopped to fix punctures. And then they overtake us as we pick up a few of our own. Instead of locking up the drunks and delinquents to add to the prison crisis, couldn’t the government send them round the countries cycle tracks with a broom??!

The urban regeneration of Glasgow has lead to some fabulous new buildings along the Clyde, and the city is certainly changing. But there are parts we hurry through, and dark cycle tracks where the morning’s drinking has already started. Following the canal tracks through this urban landscape, we suddenly arrive at the beauty of the Firth of Clyde and then Loch Lomond.

Regeneration along the ClydeHistory on the ClydeForth and Clyde Canal
Regeneration along the ClydeHistory on the ClydeForth and Clyde Canal
Canal out into the Firth of ClydeMeeting at Loch LomondLoch Lomond
Canal out into the Firth of ClydeMeeting at Loch LomondLoch Lomond

The afternoon is a mostly solo cycle for me, with groups leaving me behind after Loch Lomond. A long grind up to the "Rest and Be Thankful Pass" sees me actually overtaking someone, up a hill! This must be a first. Spectacular views from the top of this pass make the climb worthwhile, and then heading on for Inverarary for a very late finish after a long day. Fortunately the pubs serve food much later up her, and I get dinner with Elaine, Louise and Gareth in Inverarary.

Gare Loch near GarelochheadLoch long at ArrocharClimbing up to Rest and Be Thankful Pass
Gare Loch near GarelochheadLoch long at ArrocharClimbing up to Rest and Be Thankful Pass
View from top of Rest and Be Thankful PassComing down the other sideInverarary
View from top of Rest and Be Thankful PassComing down the other sideInverarary

Route maps from Google maps
Tour summary: 82 miles planed, 82 miles actual, 782 miles total so far.

Tuesday 19 June 2007

Day 10 - Shortcuts through the Lowlands - Ecclefechan to Motherwell

Breakfast turned out to be as random as dinner at the hotel, so we were on waiting duties again to help out with the toast and coffee. A long day planned for today (85 miles), so most people were in a rush to get started and missed the morning briefing. Pity, as there was a shorter route available. I opted for the shorter, flatter route. Instead of taking the tourist route towards Edinburgh and turning back towards Glasgow, I headed along the B-roads beside the motorway.

Dull and grey day, but the rain mostly holds off. Not seeing much scenery on the route I take, but I finish the day with a couple of hours to spare, so go to visit a stately home just outside Hamilton - Chateauherault. Contrasting views from the garden with this country mansion on one side and the high rise blocks of Glasgow on the opposite side.

Church near LockerbieChateauheraultHamilton from Chateauherault
Church near LockerbieChateauheraultHamilton from Chateauherault

Back to the campsite for afternoon tea and cakes before finding the hotel. Staying in another pub/hotel chain, which encourages us to keep our bikes in the room for safe keeping. Dinner with Ian And Gerry.

Kevin's day offTim, after the long routeTrevor, Andi and Dave
Kevin's day off, with Elaine and GarethTim, after the long routeTrevor, Andi and Dave
Dawn and DawnTea timeTea time
Dawn and DawnDown tools for tea break

Tour map from Google maps.
Tour summary: 85 miles planned, 73 miles actual, 700 miles total so far.